Lecso: A Simple Summer Pepper Stew

A simple Hungarian pepper and tomato stew that uses seasonal vegetables, paprika and a little patience.

Lecso is one of those dishes that every Hungarian family seems to make in its own way. At its heart are sweet peppers, tomatoes and onions, cooked slowly until they collapse into a glossy, jammy sauce. It is at its best in late summer, when the market stalls are piled high with peppers that are cheap, fragrant and full of flavour.

The method is gentle. Start by frying chopped onion in a little lard or oil until soft, then add sliced peppers and let them sweat with a pinch of salt. Add ripe tomatoes, cook until the mixture thickens, and stir in sweet paprika off the heat so it does not turn bitter. Many cooks finish with a few slices of smoked sausage, which adds a rich savoury note.

Serve lecso hot or cold with crusty bread, or spoon it over rice or into a bowl with a fried egg on top. It keeps well in the fridge for a couple of days and tastes even better the next morning. If you want a lighter version, skip the sausage and add a handful of fresh basil at the end. Patience matters more than technique here.